By risaqq 
The vibrant pulse of Southern Spain beats at the very heart of the Guadalquivir river where the sun-drenched city of Seville acts as the proud cultural and historic soul of the region. Founded as Hisbaal by the Phoenicians and later flourishing as the Roman city of Hispalis, Seville saw its fair share of rulers rise and fall before finally finding itself under the Islamic Almohad Dynasty before falling back under Christian rule in 1248. Today, as the capital city of the region of Andalusia, Seville is a vibrant and exciting place where a bustling local population of almost 700,000 co-exists in relative harmony with a rich and proud historic past. Surrounded by pretty plazas of orange trees, Seville is a city where the rich heritage of the Iberian peninsula seems to jump off every cobbled street.
Deeply steeped in history, the Royal Alcazar of Seville (photo left: Patio de las Doncellas) is one of Spain’s most cherished monuments, a World Heritage Site that is considered one of the most important examples of the Mudéjar style of architecture and one of the oldest royal palaces in Europe. Constructed as a Moorish castle in the 10th century, the Alcázar was expanded by successive Christian kings who employed Moorish artisans to create many of the remarkable horseshoe arches, tilework, and carved plasterwork that embellish the fortress today. Still used regularly by the Spanish royal family as their residence in Seville, the Alcázar takes around 2-hours to fully experience. Highlights include the beautiful patios such as the Courtyard of the Maidens (Patio de las Doncellas) and the wonderful peacock inhabited gardens.
Right next to the Royal Alcázar, the immense Cathedral of St. Mary of the See dominates the skyline and is in fact the largest Gothic cathedral in the world (photo right: View of the Giralta overlooking the city). Constructed on the site of a former Almohad mosque, the construction of this immense edifice began soon after the Reconquista and took over a century to complete. Housing the impressive tomb of Christopher Columbus, the cathedral also boasts a number of notable works of art from the Spanish masters including Murillo and Goya, not to mention the outstanding altarpiece. At the top of the cathedral is the Giralda, a towering minaret that takes its name from the 15th-century bells that crown the building. A total of 34 broad staircases (and no lifts) were built into the minaret so that the muezzin – the Muslim “reciter of prayers” – could climb them on horseback. Today, visitors can follow these steps to a panoramic viewpoint 360 feet above the city for superb aerial views of the city.
Beyond the shadow of the cathedral tower is the Barrio de la Santa Cruz (photo left: Street in Santa Cruz), Seville’s former Jewish quarter that is today one of the city’s most romantically atmospheric maze of narrow cobbled alleys, whitewashed houses, wrought-iron balconies and enclosed courtyards. At the very end of this special quarter, the historic complex of the General Archive of the Indies (Archivo General de Indias) – the third of Seville’s World Heritage Sites – stands proudly as the most important building complex in Seville. Completed in the 16th century, this Renaissance-style building complex now serves as the repository for more than 43,000 documents relating to Spain’s discoveries around the world. Housing a fascinating collection of maps, manuscripts and letters, it was here that the conquistadores of the Spanish empire charted their conquests of the New World.
Following the shaded alleys and streets of Santa Cruz, a short walk south will lead you into the shadow of the great Plaza de España, set in the beautiful grounds of the María Luisa Park. Located at the center of this park is the semi-circular building complex made famous by the Iberoamerican Exposition of 1929. A large central plaza and a canal running half-a-mile along the length of the park is intersected by four bridges, representing the four Spanish kingdoms before the unification of Spain. Set into the banks of the canal are beautiful alcoves made of hand-painted tiles, depicting scenes of all of the Spanish provinces. Covering many acres of mature gardens and shady avenues, María Luisa Park has plenty of seating and shaded areas making it a pleasant place to spend a warm afternoon in Andalusia. Moorish-style tiled benches and swan-infested pools also provide a cool place to rest and take in the spectacular surroundings.
Overlooking the Guadalquivir river is the historic Isabel II Bridge that offers unrivaled views of the busy river traffic and the iconic white-domed island of Triana (photo right: Triana). A major working-class district, Triana has long been famed as the home of Seville’s mariners, potters and flamenco singers. Today this fascinating district still retains its unique identity, different from the rest of Seville city, boasting some of the most vibrant and traditional flamenco music, song and dance. As you wander the streets of Triana, the local bar owners offer up their wares in the many beautifully decorated taverns and shops selling traditional azulejo tiles. Be sure to stop by the historic food halls and sample the delights of traditional Andalusian specialities such as salmorejo, espárragos con mahonesa, slow-braised pork cheek, fried fish (pescaíto frito) and serranito sandwiches. However, dining in Seville really is a social activity that is all about the experience and sharing food with your friends. The traditional tapas culture means local bars are the place to go drinking and dining in the city. Seville’s bars offer a friendly and sociable environment where people gather together to drink a glass of chilled dry manzanilla or sherry. In the cooler evenings of the year, Seville locals enjoy dining outside in the wonderful evening air.
As well as its traditional tapas bars and great local produce, Seville has its modern-day culture too, best epitomized by the wonderful new Metropol Parasol – or Las Setas (The Mushrooms) – that opened its doors to the public in 2011. Perched above the historic Plaza de la Encarnación, this huge parasol construction is one of Europe’s tallest wooden structures and certainly the most unusual. Designed by German architect Jürgen Mayer, these six massive parasols tower over a large open plaza, an archaeological museum and a fresh food market. Taking a walk around the top of the parasols is a must-do on any visit to Seville, offering incredible views over the city and a great place to watch the sunset.
When it comes to festivals and traditional celebrations, Seville really does know how to put on a show as the city comes alive in the grandest traditions of Andalusia. The religious processions of Semana Santa (Holy Week) see the local brotherhoods take to the streets in grand and historic costume, huge flower-decked floats and with hundreds of people in tow, carrying the historic statues of Christ and the Virgin Mary around the city. Just a few weeks later, the whole atmosphere changes completely as Seville holds one of the most traditional festivals of southern Spain – the Feria de Abril (photo left: Typical fiesta of Seville). Taking place in the huge grounds of the fairgrounds, Seville turns into a riot of color as the locals don their finest traditional flamenco dress. Horses, dancing and music fill the air as day turns into night and the long nights of the fiesta are celebrated by the locals inside their private casetas (tents).
With its rich cultural past and exciting modern-day developments, Seville really does offer something for everyone. With the high-speed AVE rail station (Santa Justa) and excellent transport links to the region, coupled with the Seville SVQ airport, the city is well placed as a convenient gateway to the local region. Easy to get around and with excellent walking and cycle paths, Seville is an accessible and enjoyable destination for travelers of all abilities. While the summers can be extremely hot, visiting Seville in the warmer months is a delight with mild evenings and warm daytime temperatures. A wonderful stop on any trip to the region, Seville is a perfect city break destination, or as a launch pad to further adventures into Granada, Córdoba, the white hill towns (pueblos blancos), or even a trip to the Atlantic coast or across the border into Portugal.